2009 surf 043

Well I am gunning for 50 surfs this year but it is NOT gonna happen... 7 more and only about 4 "surfable" days for me IF there is actually any surf!

But what a year hey! Breaking in the quiver, breaking in my head, bringing Marvin home, surfing Rusty, Marvin and Blu-Ray for the first times.

Surfing with my Jedi Master Smiley, holding down the fort when he couldn't make it, checking his sessions when I couldn't make it. Kurt, Masa, Ricky, Stevo, Randy, Haru, Takeshi and countless home boys at the localS.

2009 surf 041 & 042

Dec 7th... What a day. Bumped into Randy who I had met at the HBR a year or so (2?) ago. HBR was just firing. I promised a buddy I would mail him when I got there... the mail:

Subject: Perfect

Body: Giddy

That is all I had time to write. Surfed the HBR on the Warrior. It rocks and had several solid waves including 4 or 5 set bombs.

After the crowd got outta control Randy, Hama, Shige and I decided to hit it a bit further... XXX.

OMG, we were greeted with uncrowded perfection on a day that is glazed into the memory card.

2009 surf 038, 039 & 040

Perfect single fin surf....
Sent from Smiley's iPhone

nov 26 hbr solo
nov 27 sunrise smiley, masa
dec 4 hbr smiley

SYD <> LAX

JAL EcoFly - what ever that is?!!

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Wax off, wax on.

What better to do on a sunny Friday afternoon when there are no waves than drink coffee, skype friends, watch nfl replays and clean your quiver and apply cold water wax?

Chillin... literally

Literally... Or is that physically? And do i need a spell checker on this mobile device? Waiting at the local...
Wow... Spec of rain on mobile device screen has this fantastic pixelic magnification groove goin' on... Pity I can't get that on the screen shot.